While waiting for blanks from Anglers' Workshop, I built myself a rod wrapping jig. Saw this D.I.Y. wrapping jig by Grey Pennell in the internet which is
easy to construct. I think I'll need that when I start my rod project..
photo by Loudog99 |
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Rod wrapping jig
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 fango |
Rod wrapping jig |
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Guide
Posts: 25 (04/06/09 01:49:28) |
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pearow |
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Master Guide
Posts: 1547 (04/06/09 06:37:05) |
nice setup-p-
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fango |
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Guide
Posts: 26 (04/07/09 02:52:45) |
 Thanks!
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corlay |
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Master Guide
Posts: 761 (04/07/09 07:50:39) |
fango wrote:*sweet*! do you have a link? I needs to make me oneof those! (time to ditch the cardboard box...)
"From my observations I think that most of us spend too much time worrying about our tackle and too little time
learning the intimate characteristics of the fish and streams we fish most."
- Ray Bergman
Trout, New York: Knopf 1938 |
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fango |
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Guide
Posts: 27 (04/07/09 20:05:55) |
Hi Corlay...
Here's the link . http://www.steelheader.net/Rodbuilding/build_your_own_rod_jig.htm I made mine of pine wood.. so, it will be lighter.. Cheers, fango |
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corlay |
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Master Guide
Posts: 785 (04/28/09 12:03:54) |
fango wrote:OK... Received a Home Depot gift card recently as a gift, so today I picked up the Materials to build this jig. My only deviations are that I: a.) made the jig 30" long, rather than the suggested 24", for more versatility. b.) beefed-up the hardware that secures the supports to the base, and used 3/8" vs. 1/4". c.) I also used a 1x4 (vs. the suggested 1x3) for the "back" base piece to provide more support to the Thread spool piece, which extends back that way. This produces an offset groove for the wing nuts. d.) And I may experiment with mounting a few wooden 3/8" dowels to the bottom of the Thread Spool piece, that will slot into the groove, rather than fitting that piece with a wing nut/carriage bolt, like the rod support pieces. The thinking is that it will be easier to remove, when needed. I've got to think that sometimes you'll want the Thread Spool piece outside of the rod supports, rather than between them; depending upon the guide location on the blank. e.) I also am using Pine wood. But overall a really great, and cheap design! Here's a quick sketch of my mods, I'll post actual pics when done. 
"From my observations I think that most of us spend too much time worrying about our tackle and too little time
learning the intimate characteristics of the fish and streams we fish most."
- Ray Bergman
Trout, New York: Knopf 1938
Last Edited By: corlay
04/30/09 07:30:29.
Edited 3 times.
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wacokid54 |
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Master Guide
Posts: 564 (04/29/09 22:43:11) |
That is the most amazing "quick sketch" I have ever seen. How did you get the lines so straight? (HA!)
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fango |
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Guide
Posts: 48 (04/29/09 22:44:17) |
Can't wait to see your modified version of this wrapping jig..
Yup, I must admit it's a great and .. would not call it cheap, but cost effective design.. 
Made mine out of pine wood too because of it's light weight.. fango |
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fango |
Rod wrapping jig plus rod dryer | ||
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Guide
Posts: 49 (05/03/09 20:28:25) |
Just made another rod wrapping jig with a motor for rod drying for a friend.
Could not find any plastic rollers , so we substitute it with bearings attached with rubber O ring.. that was the best option we had. Bought a 16 rpm AC motor for those electronic gadget shop.. Took a few piece of pine wood planks... and a days work.. 
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corlay |
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Master Guide
Posts: 796 (05/04/09 10:06:40) |
fango wrote:Fango, How do you prevent the wing-nut on the Thread Tensioner from turning, when thread is de-spooling? Once I apply compression to the spring with the wing-nut, the whole thing turns. Maybe reverse the thread tensioner post from the left-side to the right, so that the spool is turning in a direction that would tighten the wing-nut, rather than loosen it? (not sure if that would be any better, but I'll try it tonight...) Also, didn't the original tutorial mention something about nylon washers? Maybe they "slip" better?...
"From my observations I think that most of us spend too much time worrying about our tackle and too little time
learning the intimate characteristics of the fish and streams we fish most."
- Ray Bergman
Trout, New York: Knopf 1938 |
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fango |
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Guide
Posts: 51 (05/04/09 19:02:45) |
"Step 3, Thread
Tensioner
Now, take the two pieces you set aside earlier. Drill two 1/4" holes in the piece of 1x2, far enough apart so two spools of wrapping thread won't hit each other. On mine, they are 2" apart. Glue/screw the 1x2 to one edge of the piece of 1x4. Drill a 5/16" hole in the center of the 1x4, about 2" from the edge. Thread the 3" bolts through the two holes in the upright, and secure them with a nut. These will hold your spools of wrapping thread. Tension on mine is supplied by two small pieces of surgical tubing (small springs will also work) I had to use the self-locking nuts because the wing nuts I tried kept un-screwing themselves as the spools turned Washers cut from a thin piece of plastic, and placed on both ends of the thread spools help the thread spools to turn smoothly. I added a small eye screw to the base to feed the thread from the bottom of the rod blank. "That was abstracted from the article. Yup, there is a plastic washer which allows the thread spool to turn smoother and a jamming nut or self locking nut so that it will not unscrew when the spool turns. 
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corlay |
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Master Guide
Posts: 797 (05/04/09 19:25:24) |
fango wrote:I just did a test, and setup the spool in reverse, so that the support for the tensioner in on the right, as you face the jig, instead of on the left. works great! no issues with the wing nut turning that way. As I had suspected, the friction resistance of tightening that wing nut against the fender washer, is not overcome by the spinning spool. I think that I'll continue the build with the tensioner on the right-side. or just orient the Thread on the tensioner so that it de-spools from the bottom, if on the left side? not sure which, yet... Heck, maybe it would be *better* for the thread to de-spool from the bottom? Keeps the thread lower and out of the way of wrapping. Probably shouldn't make too much difference in how the whole thing operates.
"From my observations I think that most of us spend too much time worrying about our tackle and too little time
learning the intimate characteristics of the fish and streams we fish most."
- Ray Bergman
Trout, New York: Knopf 1938
Last Edited By: corlay
05/05/09 08:23:09.
Edited 2 times.
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corlay |
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Master Guide
Posts: 798 (05/05/09 08:22:16) |
corlay wrote:Built this portion of the jig last night, and it works just as I'd hoped! My tolerance for the slot in the base is pretty tight, so that the 3/8" wooden dowels can slide freely, but still have a little friction resistance. easily removable, and easy to re-position. and it stays put when wrapping. ok, on to the rod supports...
"From my observations I think that most of us spend too much time worrying about our tackle and too little time
learning the intimate characteristics of the fish and streams we fish most."
- Ray Bergman
Trout, New York: Knopf 1938 |
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corlay |
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Master Guide
Posts: 805 (05/08/09 11:06:23) |
fango wrote:Fango, Looks like your Rod Rests in this one are height-adjustable? I need to make a free-standing one for the typical wrapping jig, to handle a 3rd point of support, when required. I have some ideas, but was wondering what you've done? Just saw-cut a slot in the bottom piece, which is permanently affixed to the base, and then the rod-rest piece is bolted to it's face with a wing nut for tension adjustment? Thanks! PS the project is coming out great! I'll post some pics over the weekend. Thanks for your inspiration!
"From my observations I think that most of us spend too much time worrying about our tackle and too little time
learning the intimate characteristics of the fish and streams we fish most."
- Ray Bergman
Trout, New York: Knopf 1938 |
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gypsy |
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Master Guide
Posts: 460 (05/09/09 19:31:36) |
That's a pretty sweet set up Fango. If you replaced the rod drying motor with something faster like a drill could could turn cork grips on a mandrel or the
blank.
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corlay |
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Master Guide
Posts: 808 (05/10/09 18:21:09) |
ok,
here's a few pics of my version of the jig. 
Same basic design with a few tweaks. I made the base up out of a 1x3 and a 1x4 vs. (2) 1x3's as suggested. This gives a broader base of support to the back of the jig, for the thread tensioner piece to sit on. Also I omitted the carriage bolt and wing-nut attachment of the thread tensioner piece, and opted for a few simple dowels instead. 
these dowels are sized the same as the carriage bolts, and slot into the base just as well. They hold the tensioner plenty securely enough when in use, and allow for re-positioning it either between 
or outside one of the rod supports so much easier. 
I also added a dowel to the base of the rod support pieces, just to help keep things in-line. Otherwise the rod rests were free to swivel about the single carriage bolt point of attachment. 
Pine wood, finished in hand-rubbed, natural Tung Oil. Now I just need to make-up a matching free-standing and adjustable height rod rest, to handle a 3rd point of support beyond the jig, when needed.
"From my observations I think that most of us spend too much time worrying about our tackle and too little time
learning the intimate characteristics of the fish and streams we fish most."
- Ray Bergman
Trout, New York: Knopf 1938
Last Edited By: corlay
05/10/09 18:23:12.
Edited 1 times.
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fango |
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Guide
Posts: 55 (05/10/09 20:14:27) |
corlay wrote:_________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Yup this motorized version have adjustable rod holder.. No, all the rod holders and motor stand are movable.. ( slide front and back ) See the groove on the based , there's a screw to hold down the rod holder which I did not place it when I took this photo. GREAT WORK.. corlay. Your wrapping jig looks much neater than mine.. |
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fango |
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Guide
Posts: 56 (05/10/09 20:16:44) |
gypsy wrote: Thanks gypsy. Will give that a thought.. fango |
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corlay |
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Master Guide
Posts: 809 (05/11/09 07:53:43) |
fango wrote:I think that maybe you've misunderstood my Q. When I say "base" I meant the base of the rod rest itself, and not the overall base (with the groove) that the rests mount on to. My question was really how the height-adjustment works, between the 2 vertical pieces of the rod rest piece. What hardware you've used, etc. Hard to tell, exactly, from the pics... GREAT WORK.. corlay. Your wrapping jig looks much neater than mine..thanks. I cheated, though; and used select-grade pine.
"From my observations I think that most of us spend too much time worrying about our tackle and too little time
learning the intimate characteristics of the fish and streams we fish most."
- Ray Bergman
Trout, New York: Knopf 1938 |
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fango |
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Guide
Posts: 59 (05/11/09 09:04:24) |
i see .. i see...
the rod holder is adjustable in height. if you look closely at the rod holder, you will notice a lapping of 2 piece of wood with groove line at the centre, and a screw to hold the 2 piece together. The maximum adjustment is about 2" only, but you don't need to adjust to that extend . You merely need 1/2" adjustment just to level the rod. Does that clear your doubt..
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- Welcome, Messages, Claves, News, and FAQs
- Fishing with Fiberglass Fly Rods
- Glass Tech
- Collecting Fiberglass Fly Rods
- What's New on the Market
- Rod Pictures
- Classic Fly Reels
- Another Spin on Glass
- Rod Building & Tackle Tinkering
- The Tying Bench
- Fiberglass Fly Rods For Sale
- Fiberglass Fly Rods Wanted
- Fiberglass Flyrodders Wiki
