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bulldog1935	Mechanical Bits	Lead	[-]
Posts: 3105 (06/13/08 07:55:19) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I was surprised how many people responded to the simple procedure for adjusting end play and the spindle screw on a Young reel. So I decided to start a sticky to copy posts about simple mechanical procedures. Here's the first: Postwar Young spool end play the run-out screw in the center of the latch plate. Disengage the pawls and the spool should spin almost like a top. the run-out screw in the center of the latch plate, tightened against the spindle tip, should allow just the slightest end play. Tighten it until the spool starts to bind, then back it off to where you can feel that it's spinning freely. There is the possibility of a bent latch bar. This will show up in the runout adjustment as a the spool feeling free over most of the rotation and then binding up in one spot, or as a difference in end-play versus the rotation position. Last Edited By: bulldog1935 06/13/08 08:01:34. Edited 2 times.
bulldog1935	Spindle-end adjustment on prewar-style Young latch plate reel (and some postwar Milwards, etc.)	#1	[-]
Posts: 3106 (06/13/08 07:57:42) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	This question is for Ron, since I remember reading about this in one of his posts... I have Milwards Flycraft in a nice shape (needs cleaning, though), with very slight spool movement. I remember reading in one of your posts about spindle adjustment with the screw and the nut on the very top (pictured below) . Would that fix the tiny amount of spool wobble? The reel can be fished as is, but I wouldn't mind adjusting it slightly, if possible. Thanks, Vlad Hi Vlad, great reel. you need a socket (better, nutdriver) that fits the nut and a fine screwdriver. The idea is to take out all the end play and still have the spool spinning freely. disengage the pawls and check for end play. 1) if it has end play, you need to loosen the nut and tighten the screw. when it's just right, tighten the nut then the screw. 2) if it's tight, loosen the screw and tighten the nut a bit, retighten the screw and try again. you will probably have to cycle between these two sequences to slowly dial it in the last thing to always do is tighten the screw, make sure it freespools with minimum to no end-play. tighten doesn't mean torque it down - everything just needs to be snug. Re-engage the pawl. that bad news is if you can't make end-play go away without drag on the spool. That means the latch bar is bent and needs to be bent back to flat. It's a bugger to disassemble the latch plate on the prewar design - actually to reassemble it and get the latch spring back in place - I have an algorithm for that, too... (but it's a snap on postwar reels) I love these reels here's a 1937 Flycraft Last Edited By: bulldog1935 06/18/08 17:02:43. Edited 3 times.
bulldog1935	Installing latch bar and spring in postwar Young	#2	[-]
Posts: 3107 (06/13/08 08:16:53) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Hello my Friends, could you please help put in the right place the Release Lever Spring and the Release Lever in the Pridex? Thank you so much! Best Regards, João Put the latch bar in place on its boss, in the "closed" position. Place the flat end of the spring against the latch bar - the bent leaf of the spring will be outside of the recess - and hold both together at the boss end with your finger. Take a small screwdriver and push the bent leaf of the spring over the curved edge into the recess. note that on a post-1962 reel, the bosses are inside the cap rather than on the spool face, so you follow this same procedure, only inside the cap...
bulldog1935	Reversing Direction on Martin Disc Drag	#3	[-]
Posts: 3110 (06/13/08 08:48:17) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I recently picked up a Martin Trophy SD910. Can this reel be converted to LHW? If so can anyone explain how? Also the drag and click work in the line out direction but there is no click when line is retrieved. Is that normal for this model? The reel appears to be in nice shape. Tom there is a clutch plate screwed onto the back of the spool. remove the two screws, flip the clutch plate, and put the screws back.
bulldog1935	Pawl Direction	#4	[-]
Posts: 3111 (06/13/08 09:01:47) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Sorry to post twice (also in click and pawl thread) This may be a really dumb question, how do you know which way the pawl is suppose to be positioned for a left hand retrieve. On my reel which is silent upon retrieve, either way I place the pawl seems to function about the same. It is similiar to a redington CT reel, it is a Fin Nor Finite II. Thanks this little reel is the best I've ever seen to show it. This reel is set up for RHW. Look at the orientation of the springs, and look at the orientation of the slots in the pawls. To change to LHW, switch the engagement of the pawls, so that it looks like a mirror of this photo (RHW shown) Hardy clone (LHW shown) Martin (LHW shown) Symmetric (post-1959 Young) LHW shown Last Edited By: bulldog1935 06/13/08 10:45:02. Edited 2 times.
waynebh		#5	[-]
Master Guide Posts: 74 (06/13/08 10:31:53) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Great information Ron! Thanks; Waynebh
bulldog1935	Hot Sauce Grease Vs. Hot Sauce Oil	#6	[-]
Posts: 3135 (06/19/08 07:10:56) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Under what circumstances do you use one or the other? I use the grease on drag gears and latch grooves I use the lube (light oil) on pawl stanchions, spindles/bushings and handle spindles, also on tensioning blocks and threads. another place I might use the grease is to help absorb freeplay on a spindle or endplay by using it just beneath the spool bushing at the base of the spindle.
bulldog1935	Ogden Smiths - siezed thumbscrew	#7	[-]
Posts: 3202 (07/01/08 12:13:13) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Bud wrote: I just received a nice little Ogden Smith with what appears to be a silk line. Any suggestions as to how to loosen the Spindle screw? It is so tight that I am afraid of tearing up the brass screw. I would like to take it apart and clean and lube it. Bud wrote: Got it!!! I put it in the freezer for a half hour....worked like a charm.
Raybow		#8	[-]
Master Guide Posts: 88 (08/19/08 16:09:11) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Those are beutifull reels but..........it'd be hit and miss on me finding one that was priced to my pocket.......But, Bull it was a good read and info for reels that there is very little known about. Ray..........................
bulldog1935	Creative repairs 101	#9	[-]
Posts: 3548 (09/04/08 08:22:52) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I don't know why the guy did this. I bought a Beaudex frame and spool assuming replacing the latch assembly would be no problem - I have the parts. Here's what it's supposed to look like the guy had gouged out the latch bar boss, and had gouged out the wall of the assembly boss between the arrows Of course, even if you pinned the latch bar, taking the spool off, the latch would close so far that it couldn't retain the spring. I drilled and added a pin for the new latch boss, and put a drop of JB weld to build a new wall, then filed the cured drop to fit the latch cover I ended up having to drill and add one more pin to make a better stop for the latch bar It came out great - works like a champ good ol' JB Weld...
bulldog1935	Medalist 1492 LHW conversion	#10	[-]
Posts: 3960 (10/24/08 09:37:03) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	BH Spey wrote: I found a link to a japanese site containing the basic info on the conversion: http://www.amago.jp.lv/b-...t/favorite_medalist2.html but found after playing with it a while that the only way to make it work properly was to add about a 15 degree upturn to the last 3/8" of the rebent spring depicted in the photos on the above site. You need to reset the pin limiting the pawl rotation so that it is between the two points on the pawl (opposite the cut off point). After retempering the spring following Bulldog's instructions in the tuning thread above it works like a dream! I believe in the Japanese translation, where he talks about lowering the pin, he means to file away the pin, which limits the rotation of the pawl - this then lets you try the pawl in several positions to find the one that works best in LHW. the rods are never obsolete - the marketing is.
bulldog1935	tuning pawl springs	#11	[-]
Posts: 4005 (10/31/08 14:04:59) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	topic comes up all the time, so made this a sticky over on Clark's board clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/topic/4144 discussing how to tune pawl springs Guys, don't bend on vintage springs - find some new springs that fit and bend those... the rods are never obsolete - the marketing is. Last Edited By: bulldog1935 09/15/09 08:33:36. Edited 1 times.
bulldog1935	Medalist take down	#12	[-]
Posts: 4368 (01/02/09 10:00:07) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	corlay wrote: Hi All. I've got a 1495AK here, that I need to clean-up, and re-lubricate. I've got the approach down for basic click/pawl reels, but the innards of a medalist aren't quite as easy to decipher, with regard to what to lubricate, and what parts get grease, and which get oil? Judging by the inside of a new Medalist I have, the Manufacturer's solution is to liberally slather everything in grease. I'd like to be a bit more surgical if possible. Can anyone offer advice? Before you go there, make sure you inspect your reel closely, understand this drawing, and the location and function of each of the springs. a little oil on on the spindle, on the brass ratchet bearing, on the tensioning block screw threads, in the pawl on the back of the spool and on the handle spindle. A touch of grease on the latch groove at the end of the spindle and a touch in the ratchet grooves the rods are never obsolete - the marketing is. Last Edited By: bulldog1935 03/06/09 07:14:43. Edited 2 times.
bulldog1935	Cleaning and Lube	#13	[-]
Posts: 4515 (01/24/09 11:00:48) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I had my Godfrey Westminster apart this morning, and was amazed how much dirt this reel had accumulated with moderate use. So I decided to link to this bit of wisdom from Shoeless Joe http://clarksclassicflyro...rdy-reel-lubrication.html the rods are never obsolete - the marketing is.
bulldog1935	Creative One Pfoot Parts 101	#14	[-]
Posts: 4794 (03/05/09 18:23:28) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Bill's parts are really useful. Here is a Meisselbach Featherlight 260, patent 1895, and probably 100+ years old, whose wooden handle had rotted away. I was able to remove the handle spindle, which was screwed into the spool then staked - sorry I didn't take a before photo. I tightened to turn in in the screw, filed off the stake, then backed it out - so no cutting or permanent alteration. I used one of Bill's Swirl handles, drilled it out a little, shortened it a little on the bottom by progressively sanding it. It works perfectly. It feels good, and spins like a top. I like it. It's as close to the original black as I could easily do. Because I was able to turn the handle screw in and out, it can be replaced it with a wood handle sometime, but this handle is great, IMO, and will never give a moment's worry. Wood will eventually swell, bind, and back the handle screw out of the spool. this is the beauty of these reels - the screw that holds the horseshoe spring in place. Loosen it, push it to one side, re-tighten it, and it's perfectly tuned in LHW. the rods are never obsolete - the marketing is.
dman	Spindle screw	#15	[-]
Sport Posts: 22 (04/30/09 09:39:53) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I mentioned this in another thread but thought it would be appropriate here with pictures to show someone's ingenuity...a little mechanical bit. The little knob on the end of the spindle creating the latch groove is not a listed separate part so I guess someone lost the knob and replaced it with this ordinary wood screw. This actually is working quite well! Last Edited By: dman 04/30/09 09:45:41. Edited 1 times.
bulldog1935		#16	[-]
Posts: 5179 (09/13/09 16:37:17) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	nowindknots wrote: I have come upon an Eagle Claw signature reel. It is 3 3/4 inches across, has selectable LHW-RHW with anti-reverse, and a drag system built into the spool. This is a ruggedly built reel. The problem is the toothed gear that the selectable clicker engages is loose on the shaft and free spins. I did a search and found one mention of a similar problem on a different reel, but no fixes. Any suggestions? Jim Pics: I use a jeweler's peening hammer to spread the bushing agains the ID of the drag gear. Had success on many reels - this is a problem that shows up on prewar Youngs occasionally. nowindknots wrote: I figured it for a compression fit, thanks for the verification. I would hate to screw up a vintage reel. Not surprisingly, I did not have a jeweler's peen in my bag of goodies. I did have a quick taper center punch that fit nicely. A good smack, and all is well with no side effects. Thanks! that works too the rods are never obsolete - the marketing is. Last Edited By: bulldog1935 09/13/09 19:17:20. Edited 2 times.

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