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Yes, the 67 SSA is a much more refined reel, the on-off click "tuna-can" models being very basic. The incovenience of the basic design is in spool changing. The convenience is that they spool line very well in winding if, as pointed out above, you don't overfill them. Thread your line through the frame/line guard before fitting the spool. Also, I forget if the inside spool plate has a little notch (most of the Martins do) to provide clearance for line when the spool is slid into the frame. If it doesn't--these aren't valuable reels--I would file a clearance notch on the inner spool plate. Once you have the line threaded and spool fitted, don't wind it back for storage--always leave a few inches extended so it can't sneak back in there. Once you get used to this, you'll rarely have a tangle changing spools, and never in use. I like full frame/caged reels. For ease of spool changing, any of them should have a clearance notch, which is unnecassry with open frame reels. We've gotten used to that style, which makes spool-changing very easy, but at the expense of a more important trait, as they just don't spool or gather line in use as evenly as caged-frame reels, and they are more likely to shed an extra coil or two in stripping. I'll take a reel that might tangle in spool changing over one that might tangle in fishing.

Anyhow, you can see the idea and use of a clearance notch on reels from Hardy, Young and so on. Here it's visible at about the 10 o'clock position on a martin MG3 spool, that reel using the same frame style as the your 60/1/2. In an ideal world, I like the clearance notch directly opposite the handle, since that way I know where it is without having to rotate the spool looking for it. Spool plates are rarely assembled consistently that way, though, but if I file a notch in, I'm gonna put it exactly where I want it.