photo by Loudog99 |
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 bjanzen |
Need help with inlays and signing//// |
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Sport
Posts: 89 (11/15/07 08:29:36) |
Can someone tell me what type of pen I would use for thinned paint or ink for signing? I don't like my marking with a pen.
Also, how would I do a feather inlay? Float in thinnned FC or spray 3M77 and then coat? Barry |
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lpirrone |
Re: Need help with inlays and signing//// | ||
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Master Guide
Posts: 1926 (11/15/07 09:18:02) |
for feather inlays i first put a thin coat of water based urethane on the area of the blank. i then lay out my feathers and using a toothpick apply some more water based urethane. this allows you to move the feather a little. when i get it right i let it dry. i then re-coat several more times. when all is dry i coat with flexcoat light.
some folks use color preserver as the initial coating to lay down the feather. i think it will work just as well as water based urethane. i suppose you could use flexcoat initially but it gets on everything and is messy. don't have an answwer for you on signing rods. |
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musicar |
Re: Need help with inlays and signing//// | ||
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Master Guide
Posts: 335 (11/15/07 09:18:32) |
You will need nib pen for ink. There are many nibs used for calligraphy-I like fine/extra fine, depending on the maker. Nibs are not expensive, so you can buy several and experiment.
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 jgestar |
Re: Need help with inlays and signing//// | ||
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Posts: 4205 (11/15/07 10:10:36) ezOP |
I don't sign rods with ink - I never could. I'm not Cleo Hanley* and I can't sign a cylinder. I'm pretty sloppy on checks and documents too. Instead, I use acrylic paint and a very, very fine tipped brush. I slowly paint on the letters with tiny strokes. Once I'm happy with it, I let it dry and then overcoat it with varnish. If I don't like something, wipe it off with some dilute ammonia or Windex and start again.
With a set of acrylic paints, you can do colors. It looks good when you are done, but it takes awhile to do. Half the time I don't bother and I just use the rod unsigned. Tom * Cleo was the lady who wrote the spiral inscriptions on Heddon rods for 33 years. Apparently no one else could do it as easily as she could. |
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Loudog99 |
Re: Need help with inlays and signing//// | ||
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Master Guide
Posts: 582 (11/15/07 10:55:23) |
I only sign rods for others at this point, I don't sign my own because I know who made it!
I use steel nib pens with interchangeable tips, Sanford brand are good and cost about $5-$10 or so for a holder and 2-3 tips. For ink, Newton & Windsor inks available at Art supply stores like Pearl Paint are what I use. They have many metallic colors as well as opaques in white, brown, black and most other colors you might need. These inks dry to the touch in about 1 minute and you can finish directly over them with Flex Coat about 3 minutes after you finish writing. If you mess up, they clean up with a water moistened paper towel. Before this, I used the gel pens and nothing comes close to a nib pen and inks. HTH, Lou |
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bassackwards |
Re: Need help with inlays and signing//// | ||
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Master Guide
Posts: 484 (11/15/07 17:04:09) |
I did some research on this recently. One of the more clever things I saw was a recommendation to use a toothpick and acrylic paint. I plan to try it out on a dowel for practice soon.
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gypsy |
Re: Need help with inlays and signing//// | ||
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Master Guide
Posts: 683 (11/15/07 20:06:01) |
Barry feather inlays are super easy and quick to do. This is how I do it.
-prepare the feathers you want to inlay and have them ready to use. -coat area where you want the feather to go with a color preserver. I use flex coat cp and have no complaints. Only put down enough cp for one feather at a time as it becomes difficult to work with rather quickly. -dip bodkin in cp and use that to pick up the feather and lay it down. I use a paint brush and then cover the feather with a generous application of cp. Use the paint brush or bodkin to arrange the feather like you want. -wait an hour for cp to dry and re-coat with cp -repeat last step -I'll wait at least 12 hours before I put epoxy or varnish on top of the inlays. I've heard of some people who end up with a milky mess when they cover the inlays with epoxy and I think it's because they don't wait long enough for the cp to cure. -BTW don't worry to much how the cp looks before you cover it with finish. Most times it doesn't look so great but 2 or 3 coats of finish gets everything pretty looking. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. |
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pearow |
Re: Need help with inlays and signing//// | ||
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Master Guide
Posts: 1807 (11/15/07 21:22:51) |
I just bought a new pen to try writing on the blanks; its called a SLICK WRITER; has a medium point and is acid free, permanent, waterproof, quick dry; and its designed to write on slick surfaces; made by American Crafts. $2 at hobby lobby; (i've spent a small fortune buying pens to write on blanks and none of em work; hope this one does!!!)-p-
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StippledPopper |
Re: Need help with inlays and signing//// | ||
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Guide
Posts: 172 (11/15/07 22:10:02) |
A tip. When using a nib pen and India ink you always want to move the stroke toward you. If you move the pen away from you, the nib has a tendency to catch and flick ink. You also have to be careful of how much ink you get on the nib. It will drip. I put the ink in a 1/4 tsp measuring spoon. That way I can see how deep the nib goes in the ink and it can't go too far. The spoon is taped to TetraMin fish food container filled with pennies to give it weight.
I've had a lot of experience drawing with pen and ink using nib pens. But I specialize in using dots. Hence Stippled Popper which is the technique I use to paint my bream and bass poppers. . . what I am most known for as a tier where I live. . . I know! You have to not care about how long it takes you to complete each one. |
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jgestar |
Re: Need help with inlays and signing//// | ||
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Posts: 4205 (11/15/07 23:34:08) ezOP |
Ron,
You have to post some photos of your poppers on the Tying Bench! Tom |
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StippledPopper |
Re: Need help with inlays and signing//// | ||
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Guide
Posts: 172 (11/16/07 01:04:39) |
Tom
I plan to once I decide on a digital camera. I'd have one already. However, helping my daughter, who just finished her PhD, put together the down payment on a house and fix it up has put a severe cramp on my finances. There are a few woven patterns I'm working on too. The flies that I have looked at which are displayed on this site by other glass fly fishers are as well done as any I've seen. It is amazing to me how many 'unknowns' out there whose work is as good as, and sometimes better than some of the people whose work is published in the fly fishing periodicals. |
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bjanzen |
Re: Need help with inlays and signing//// | ||
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Sport
Posts: 89 (11/16/07 12:49:43) |
Thanks everyone for the wonderful suggestions.....I am currently working on my inlay. Will post photos when done.
I will tackle the signing after the clear dries. Barry |
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fango |
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Guide
Posts: 70 (05/22/09 03:06:22) |
bjanzen wrote: Hi Barry.. what's the outcome? ~f~ |
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fango |
Feather inlay | ||
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Guide
Posts: 71 (05/25/09 22:28:21) |
Here's mine..
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Mojorizing |
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Master Guide
Posts: 529 (06/02/09 18:13:32) |
One thing I do is put a coat or two of varnish (or one coat of epoxy) where I'm going to write on the rod. Let it dry then write on it. Then recoat it. I
do this just in case something happens and I have to remove the writing later. You can sand it off the varnish with 600 w/d and not disturb the original finish
of the rod. For feathers, I do like the others. CP. Put different feathers together too. I did something different on one rod. I did a feather inlay, put a
couple coats of spar on, then put on another feather.And more coats. Gives it a look of depth.
"If opera is entertainment, then falling off a roof is transportation!"
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alpago |
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Master Guide
Posts: 318 (06/03/09 06:38:36) |
jgestar wrote:Wow it's really amazing Tom. You know up to that level!!. Now that the answer to my question. I always wonder who wrote on those Heddon blank. All look the same. As with you, I don't have good hand too. Some times I can't read my own hand writing  . But I really admire the writing on Dave Lewis rod, super nice. His rod craftsmanship is super
nice, but still he got his wife to write it. Super nice. Al |
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