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rendicott.clarksclassicfl... |
W&M All-American grip repair or replacement |
Lead | |
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I have a 50's WM All American 8 1/2 5A rod, given to me many years ago by a relative who was employed at WM at that time. In otherwise near-mint
condition, the grip seems to have decided to self-destruct--shedding chunks of cork and crumbling. Unsightly and advanced to the point of being difficult to
hang onto. I'd like to replace the grip only; it has the Granger uplocking reel seat. Is this possible without major surgery and if so, how? Thanks.
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jgestar |
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rendicott,
Welcome to the Fiberglass Flyrodders! I'm glad you decided to post. You are right. If the cork is crumbling, it's repair time. Is the cork surface crumbling, or is it breaking all the way to the rod blank? If the entire grip needs replacement, something must come off to get the new cork on. However, if you can fly fish, you can repair a rod. With patience it should come out fine. You could remove the reelseat and spacer material, replace the cork grip, and remount the reelseat. The difficulty is the rod blank's taper. It takes a bigger hole in the cork to get it over the butt end of the rod. You must shim the cork grip (or rings) and use a large winding check to cover the hole. Usually old reelseats come off with a quick twist, but sometimes they need heat and "persuasion". Alternatively, remove the guides and butt wrap (take lots of pictures next to a ruler FIRST!), replace the cork grip, then rewrap the guides and butt wrap. The difficulty is matching the new thread color to the tip section. If the thread matches, great. If not, you could rewrap the whole rod and maybe even install new guides. If the old guides are even the slightest bit corroded or rusted, replace them all. If only the cork surface is crumbling, you could put a layer of new cork over the old. Sand the outside of the cork grip into an even cylinder to remove the crumbles. Now enlarge the hole in the cork to fit over the cylinder. Glue on the cork and reshape the rod grip. Depending on how much cork you sand off the old grip, you may still need to remove the stripper guide to make this work. A picture of the bad cork would help a lot too! Tom |
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roadking2k1 |
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Tom, I had never thought of sanding down the grip and instaling new cork over the top! Will file that away for future use, see alot of old rods that had the
cork aggressively cleaned. This may be the answer for them.
Mike |
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rendicott.clarksclassicfl... |
thanks -- and another question | ||
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Thanks for your timely and expert suggestions. I'm going to reduce the current grip's diameter - most of the damage seems to be on or near the surface
- and fit a new grip. One more question: due to arthritis, I have very little sensation or strength in my right thumb. I've tried to compensate by
adjusting my grip itself; would there be any advantage to fitting a full wells - with apparently more thumb support - rather than the stock half-wells? Or any
other suggestions? Thanks again - what a great community!
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Pete Appel |
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rendicott,
Since you're going to sleeve the grip anyway, there's no particular need or reason to stay with a conventional grip of any style, unless you're more concerned with aesthetics than function. Why not try something completely different, like a deep thumb relief in an oversize humpback grip? You could use hard florist's foam (easy to work and relatively cheap), drilled or reamed to fit the turned-down grip base, to experiment with different grip shapes until you find one which gives the support and strength you're looking for. Then, duplicate it in cork and glue it to the base. You could also incorporate a loop or strap into the grip to provide additional support, and/or use wooden dowels or plastic to build up lateral support pins. When you get right down to it, there aren't ANY rules for a grip, other than comfort and function, so feel free to be creative - it'll be a true custom! |
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rendicott.clarksclassicfl... |
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Pete-
Thanks for the suggestion. I've thought of a custom grip but didn't know how to go about.it. Now, I do. Over time my grip has morphed into something like a V-grip but I miss the control offered by the thumb on top. I've also experimented with various leather and rubber loops to anchor my thumb. Not affixed to the grip itself, they are an improvement but tend to slip. A local crafts store stocks florists' foam; I'll see what I can do with it. Do you know of a source for a cork blank large enough to be shaped into perhaps an oversize grip? Thanks again-- I really enjoy the old rod (took a couple of nice rainbows last night at a local pond) and the modified/custom grip will make it even better. R Endicott |
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rendicott.clarksclassicfl... |
Lila | ||
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Everyone- meet Lila, my 26 pound, 8 yr-old Sable Ragdoll cat. She's a great mouser but prefers her fish caught and served by another...
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majicwrench |
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Have you seen those straps that hold the very butt of the reel seat to your wrist?? Will help take some load off your thumb. I've got one here somewhere I
would be glad to send you if I could get your address, and you can play with it.
And just a thought, many years ago I set about learning to cast lefty, it didn't take long, was a fun challenge, and really is a relief on sore parts to be able to switch cast. I just kept a rod strung up by the back door, and several times a day would take it out and work with it a few minutes. Your address if you would like the above mentioned strap. Keith |
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Pete Appel |
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Hi rendicott,
I have seen some grip blanks listed in the clearance and closeout sections of various suppliers which have large ID measurements and outside diameters up to 1 1/2". These are grips designed for larger saltwater rods, but might give you enough to work with, and the large ID will actually be a help in your situation. If you need a grip over 1 1/2", you may have to build it up with pieces glued onto the cork blank, and then sanded to fit. Majicwrench's suggestion of a wrist strap is worth a try also, it you have space on the reel seat to accomodate it - the only drawback is that it may limit the flexibility of your wrist in the cast. The slippage of the thumb loops was why I suggested a deep thumb relief - all the support for your thumb will be on the sides of the relief, and the strap can be permanently attached to the grip. Nice cat! We've got two that go 28 and 29 pounds, but they aren't much in the mousing department - their strengths lie more in the blanket weight and lapwarmer areas... Pete |
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