So... When and why do you prefer a cork reel seat? Is it just aesthetic? Just for lower weight rods? I've never owned a rod with a cork reel seat, so
I'd like to hear your impressions.
Thanks, Pete
Thanks, Pete
Tengas, Fenwick, and Marryat photo by Alpago |
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Cork reel seats: love 'em, hate 'em?
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 PeteStiles |
Cork reel seats: love 'em, hate 'em? |
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Guide
Posts: 64 (05/03/09 19:21:54) |
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mdwwhw |
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Master Guide
Posts: 523 (05/03/09 21:00:02) |
Cork reel seats can be helpful if you are using slip rings rather than a threaded screw downlocker, just a little bit of give. Otherwise I dunno there's any fundamental difference in my mind.
"Everything's better when wet...."
Steve Miller Band |
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jgestar |
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Posts: 3627 (05/03/09 22:10:50) ezOP |
I prefer cork for the grip - no questions. I also like cork as an insert for a locking reelseat. With a big butt glass rod blank it is easier to bore out the
cork insert than some exotic hardwood.
For sliding ring reelseats I feel that cork is a must. The cork has enough cushion to grip both the reel foot and the ring. To make this work correctly, the ring must have an internal taper that matches the reel foot taper. For example, the new Hardy glass 5 weight has an all cork grip/reelseat and a sliding, tapered ring. That tapered ring/cork reelseat grips almost as well as a locking seat. Tom |
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docbluedevil |
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Master Guide
Posts: 423 (05/04/09 00:42:00) |
I'm a fan of cork reel seats. They work just fine from a functional standpoint.
And they tastefully complement bamboo, glass, and graphite rods in an understated but elegant way. Plus, they go well with just about any color rod blank. [Top to Bottom: Orvis Far & Fine, Orvis Golden Eagle 7'6" 6wt, Winston Stalker 8' 4 wt, Winston Retro 6'6" 3 wt, Winston DL4 8'6" 4 wt, Winston (Morgan) 7'0" 4 wt, Fenwick FF605, Fenglass 6'0" 5 wt.] 
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PeteStiles |
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Guide
Posts: 65 (05/04/09 06:11:51) |
Nice quiver, Doc!
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alpago |
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Master Guide
Posts: 314 (05/04/09 06:24:50) |
Wow Doc!!!!!
 Is that all yours?
I love cork reel seat too, especially on that Golden Eagle. For me what make them attractive is the continuous color form the grip. It got nothing to do with whether it's functional or not, it's just look nice. Just like matching the reel seat with the reel. Sometimes people just don't understand us, really 
Al |
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 pearow |
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Master Guide
Posts: 1588 (05/04/09 06:58:46) |
they are much lighter than traditional reelseat-p-
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Duff |
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Master Guide
Posts: 518 (05/04/09 08:03:40) |
That's a beautiful collection of rods, Doc. I'm a fan of cork reel seats too. They seem very appropriate for lighter line weight rods and I
particularly like them as an alternative to aluminum in some of the vintage rods.
Doc, now you've got me thinking again about those Far & Fines! |
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nativebrownie |
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Master Guide
Posts: 376 (05/04/09 08:29:52) |
Justa sucker for cork reel seats - when done well, with care by a great maker, they are beautiful. Especially with fine nickle silver work - like the Golden
Eagle above. Cane makers really showed the way there.
NB |
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flyflingerandy1 |
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Master Guide
Posts: 667 (05/04/09 09:43:16) |
Cork seats are nice on shorter rods with shorter, thinner grips. They are just tasteful. However, on a lot of shorter rods, they can exacerbate the issue of
needing to find a super light reel to balance the setup.
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Boo |
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Master Guide
Posts: 554 (05/04/09 10:00:20) |
Cork reel seats are fine on shorter rods. But, on longer rods 8', sometimes 7'6", and longer they give the rod a tip heavy feel and don't
balance nearly as well. It's one reason why I sold my 7'6" Phillipson Epoxite with cork reel seat and kept the Orvis Full Flex with a walnut reel
seat. Both tapers felt exact but the Orvis balanced better and looked nicer.
The cork reel seat on the new HArdy 8'/5wt is what has kept me from pursuing it any further. I think it may feel to tippy but I may be wrong.
Last Edited By: Boo
05/04/09 10:02:25.
Edited 1 times.
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PeteStiles |
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Guide
Posts: 66 (05/04/09 10:50:01) |
Interesting. I had not considered the weight or how it might cause a rod to feel tip heavy. Thanks for the comments.
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Cameron |
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Posts: 3331 (05/04/09 11:36:35)
Administrator &
Chat Room Host |
I think they have a simple aesthetic quality to them. I've got several fly rods with cork only and I like them a lot.
And then when you put burl into the mix they can look good too. 
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yuhina |
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Master Guide
Posts: 1178 (05/04/09 13:19:21) |
Nice collection Duc. Great photos Cameron.
The yellow fenwick I have is a cork seat too... 
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gearboy |
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Master Guide
Posts: 331 (05/04/09 15:31:10) |
I love them too and think Boo has a good point. I have several Russ Peak rods, all with a cork reel seat, and all have a heavy feel to them. When I spoke
with Mark Steffen about doing an 8'6" glass rod he was dead set against doing a cork reel seat.
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cross creek one |
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Guide
Posts: 119 (05/04/09 16:21:51) |
It's funny, there are plenty of fishermen who look at cork seats and think they are cheap. Compare the prices of nicely figured reel seat blanks to the
cost of 7 or 8 top quality cork rings (important on slip ring seats), and the wood will almost always be considerably cheaper--works out well for rod
companies. I like the simple functionality of cork.
-CC |
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delkins.marblemental |
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Guide
Posts: 19 (05/04/09 18:08:05) |
Cool thread. I must say I'm surprised by the cork preference. Given the choice, I'd take a downlocking, hardwood reelseat anyday. I simply love how
they look. I wish more modern production rods utilized them. I second the nice quiver comment. Mmm.....classic fly rod porn....
-Dave |
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mudman |
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Guide
Posts: 75 (05/04/09 19:28:19) |
Cork with two sliding rings is at it's best on short light line rods, say under 7 feet.
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Spencer DT |
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Master Guide
Posts: 208 (05/04/09 19:36:40) |
I love them, if it feels too tippy you need a heavier reel, simple fix.
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gearboy |
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Master Guide
Posts: 332 (05/05/09 04:27:54) |
Spencer, Yes, it's a simple fix by just adding a heavier reel, but that kind of defeats the purpose. I'd rather just go with a different rod that
balances nicely with a lighter reel and has a nicer feel overall. Putting a heavy reel on the end of a light rod that's tip heavy makes it feel like
you've got an anchor on the end of it, at least for me it does.
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whrlpool |
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Master Guide
Posts: 823 (05/05/09 05:01:57) |
Easy to build, easy to repair, very secure reel mounting, at home on lighter line weight rods. Remember that in the 'glass era, hardwood inserts were
uncommon; these are mostly an affectation of the graphite era. The most common reel seats were The Allen type, anodized aluminum, also quite secure. To me the
hallmark of good flyrod design is elegant simplicity with minimal ornamentation, and that only to support refinements of function: on the butt end of a fly
rod, that is a cork reel seat. I have wood barreled, too, but if I had to pick, it would be cork locking (not sliding band) and full-tube. An advantage in
making a corkbarrel is that you can make the seat the exact length wanted for the reels you plan to use--usually slightly shorter than the all purpose length
of prefabed seats with or without a wood barrel insert.
Last Edited By: whrlpool
05/05/09 05:29:17.
Edited 2 times.
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- Welcome, Messages, Claves, News, and FAQs
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- Glass Tech
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- What's New on the Market
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- Classic Fly Reels
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- Fiberglass Fly Rods For Sale
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