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Guys there are Im sure tons of thoughts on this. However in order to be cost effecient as well as time effecient, I would venture a suggest that Tom made some time ago to exactly the same question. But an additional Batson Blank, the taper should be perfect and require little if no sanding for a perfect fit. Take your ID Calipers and measure both IDs at the cut in the rod your ferruling, then find that exact spot in the parts blank OD. Cut three inches on each side. remove your spigot and trail fit into both sections to mate. You should end up cutting about half inch more off of each end if your measurements were point on. The most significent fit is an exact one for the male into the female tip section. Do your best to get 2 1/4 inches into the female tip section that will fit snug. DO NOT DO A WIGGLE TEST UNTIL YOU DO A SPIGOT FERRULE WRAP ON THE FEMALE, you could split the tip section glass. DO NOT CUT YOUR SPIGOT OR SHORTEN IT UNECESSARILY UNTIL YOU GET YOUR FERRULE WRAP SET, if your using a CP use three well dried coats and at least one or two thin coats of well dried spare varnish to set your ferrule wrap on the female tip section. This believe me will if you wrap it tight effect ferrule fit, you may need to trim back your spigot a little. The desired fit will leave about 3/16 inch of spigot exposed when set between the tip and butt sections.
Now you have your male set for your female, mark the point of female fit plus 3/16 inch on the spigot blank. Try and insert it fully into the butt of the butt section to see if it will follow the contour and extend that 3/16 inch past the end of the butt section tip wall. If it does even a tiny bit sloppy your there. I like to use slow cure Epoxy (30 minutes or longer) to give myself plenty of time should a problem arise in the setting of the spigot. If you find your spigot fits, then trim it to 2 1/4inches back from the set mark so that the same amount is going to be set with Epoxy into the inside of the butt section.
I like to swab the Epoxy into tip end of the butt section with a toothpick or wooden chopstick, mark either the 2 1/4 inches of enterior area your going to need and do not put alot of Epoxy into this void. Understand your going to want to have complete coverage of the bond, but your not going to want a big gob of Epoxy running around while your waiting for the works to dry, plus a big glob will effect drying time and create a possible problem should you need to make any repairs or changes in the future, a nice clean installation is the best. I like to swab out the inside of the hollow ferrule with a toothpick for those drips of glass inside as best as possible while setting up the works. Same holds true with the inside of the blank should a big glob develope at the inside edge of the spigot, if I cant get it with a toothpick from the outside I will try using a wand (long glass tip section that will extend all the way to the base of the spigot to swab out carefully any globs at the end of the spigot. Why its not necessary to use alot of Epoxy, only enough to get a good joint seal.
Once its set and drying I give it plenty of time to harden.
Once hardened I do the ferrule wrap on the male side of the butt section spigot. following the above with CP if used and at least two coats of thinned Varnish.
Now your ready to do a little wiggle and guide tapeup.
Hopefully you have found your spline and have marked your blank on both pieces before you cut it.
I like to set the tip on the now basic ferruled blank and start playing with guide placement and lawn casting at this point.
Often I will tape the reel feet to the blank, slide the grip into position and do some lawn casting gently to get the feel of the rod and see if Im happy with my first guess guid placement and sizes. You don't want line slap against the blank, you dont want your line stopping or backing up in a too small or to close guide when casting or shooting line. Put a small amount of weight against your guide placement, perhaps a pound or two with the rod at 10 Oclock, you will see any dead spots or massively out of position guides and can adjust your spacing accoridingly. A smooth arce should be present when under stress.
Once you have found your sweet spots its time to begin your wrapping. There are tons of choices to your guide types from single footed to traditional snakes to many other styles. Some can be benifical in what your building.
Pearow here on our forum can give you tons of Tips on Bastson rods Im guessing his built as many or more than any other member I can think of.
One other point I didnt touch upon. Your selection of the point you want to cut your blank to begin with. In using a spigot ferrule you need to Add half the distance of your male spigot to your butt section final cut (so that with the spigot in place the section is the same finished length as your tip section), and add that same amount to your tip section for your cut for just exactly the same reasons. Remember also that most Tip Top guides add a little to your overall length of your tip section so if your a nit picker, place it on the tip and measure exactly how much it will extend the tip section overall length so that your finished rod is perfect. Same holds true if your planning on using one of the little seat end pieces that extend the butt an inch or so, you need to add and include any such into your calculations before you make your blank cut.
Im sure Ive forgotten half a dozen things that the other guys can pipe in and add, so give this string a day or two to collect additional suggestions before you start cutting your blank.
Good luck, its not as hard as it sounds and sense the cost of Baston Blanks is low its the lowest cost way to get the taper right for your glass spigot.
Richard