I have a fly rod that needs to have the cork cleaned up a bit. It's not heavily soiled but you certainly tell its been used a time or two. What is the best, least damaging way to clean up the grip on a rod?
Thanks,
S
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| logo by Silver Doctor |
Featured Topic History of Fiberglass at Winston | |
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BlueDunn |
Cleaning Up Cork |
Lead | |
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Hi-
I have a fly rod that needs to have the cork cleaned up a bit. It's not heavily soiled but you certainly tell its been used a time or two. What is the best, least damaging way to clean up the grip on a rod? Thanks, S |
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docbluedevil |
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Hopefully CTKen will chime in. He has a recipe using Murphy's Oil soap that he reports works really well. I haven't done it yet but have bought the
soap for eventual use.
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pearow |
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I use a bathroom cleaner called Scrubbing Bubbles; I spray it on, let it set for a minute; if its really bad soiled I scrub it lightly with a brush, rinse it
off; repeat for heavily soiled rod grips; the stuff is amazing; lifts out the dirt easy as pie-p-
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majicwrench |
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I use Dawn dishsoap, hot water, and a toothbrush. ( not mine, my wife's). Works great. Someone mentioned once that strong soaps might take out the natural
oils that keep the cork in good shape, and I suppose that is possible, but I haven't had any problems yet.
But for the most part, I LIKE a cork that looks well fished! Keith |
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JeffK |
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I go up the intensity route starting with the most gentle and then going more aggressive. Start with damp cloth. Next is dish soap and water with a sponge or
dish cloth. Try to use a damp cloth and not really soak the grip because sometimes you can raise the grain of the cork that has dried out. Also, never use
the abrasive side of a sponge because that can really tear cork up. Add a toothbrush or other brush if it is stubborn, but try softer rather than harder
bristles. Then I go to a organic degreaser. The most aggressive step is to take a few mils off with 400 or 600 grit emory cloth for a really beat up grip.
Sometimes it is a fine line between patina and grunge. By going up the intensity scale you may hit upon the desired amount of patina. Finally, I really like Cork Seal. It protects the cork and makes cleanups much easier. Use sparingly. I brush it on thin and then wipe it off lightly so the surface isn't wet. |
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Zenkoanhead.clarksclassicfl... |
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After I clean the grip, I wet sand with varnish. Don
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docbluedevil |
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Hey, JeffK
Does Cork Seal change the appearance of original cork somewhat? Darken it, etc.? Any disadvantages to it? |
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CTfisher |
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majicwrench wrote:I just used this exact method on an old quad nylaglass rod handle and it worked perfectly. I was amazed at the great results. -Josh |
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CtKenC.clarksclassicfl... |
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I use Murphys Oil Soap and warm water ... pretty warm but not hot.
Scrub carefully with a dishrag or terry towel, rinse thoroughly in warm water to get all of the soap off, then dry with Paper Towels ... and then let air dry. Repeat the process only if absolutely necessary. Be careful while scrubbing and if you get any sense that the cork is not responding well, stop; the cork may be too worn out and the dish cloth or terry towel may be too rough for it . When all is completly dry, typically the next day, I sometimes rub some hand lotion on my hands then rub the grip to restore some of the natural softness to it. |
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scud dog |
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My routine is nominal compared to what I've read here. Kinda holistic. For starters I've never sanded a grip unless it was beyond old and really hard.
Most of my rods; I'm the original owner. I've used soap and wasn't happy with the results. Cork is a creature that has oils in it...just like we
do. Soap strips away the oils. Eventually, it's use will dry out and harden the cork. It could result in chipping and other issues.
I wet a smooth rag with steamy hot water and wrap it around the grip for a few minutes. It's a "cork sauna". Opens the pores. Allows the dirt to loosen up and rise the surface. I then slowly rub the cork with the cloth, removing the dirt. I work in short concentrated spots to avoid chipping , abrasions or loss of filler. You'll see lots of dirt on your cloth... Now, this won't give you that "new cork" look, but it will clean the cork to where it goes from grungy to looking lightly soiled or "almost" new. If the cork feels like it's dried out, a thin swipe of lemon oil will do wonders. It also lends a nice feel to the grip and it smells good too!
Last Edited By: scud dog
04/07/09 19:12:41.
Edited 1 times.
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flyfishing4goldentrout |
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Once its clean, be it a hundred old grip or a brand new one, I start with a couple of drops of varnish on my finger tips and work it into the grip, then with
cork dust (seems to be hard to find now days, anybody have a current sourse? Im down to one 1# bag) I work a little dust into the varnish until it forms a
gritty mush, then work it into all the spaces, it wont fill the first time. When dry I wet sand with 400 grit wet and dry paper (varnish) and work it in then
work in more cork dust. Next is another after dry sand in with 600 grit wet and dry paper (varnish) and still more cork dust. Finally the final coat is sanded
in with 1500 wet and dry, (varnish) and hopefully no more cork dust needed, otherwise back to the 600 grit stage.
Anyway if the 1500 filled it all I let it dry good, hard I mean, really hard, perhaps a month. Then I take 0000 steel wool and gently scrub away the high gloss of the varnish to a semi gloss finish. Nice thing is fish slim cleans easily and fungis and mold also bugs cant find a spot. Also after all it is a wood, it just looks good to me as well. Richard |
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middlemac |
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I know it's highly drying, but lightly padding the grip with a cotton rag and a few drops of isopropyl alcohol- never wetting it thoroughly- and wiping
gently works for me. Handling and fishing it after cleaning soon returns the oils and patina to the cork.
To many, soiled cork is part of the beauty of a classic rod- but when I pick up an affordable, well-used stick on ebay from an anonymous seller, I want the soiling to be mine, not their's. A rare, very expensive or otherwise precious rod such as a family heirloom would be a different situation of course.
middlemac
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galleta loco |
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The grips on these two were filthy and I cleaned them and the rods with mr. clean magic eraser
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pearow |
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there's many ways to skin a cat, ain't there?-p-
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whrlpool |
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Right on, Pearow. Except in warfare, the gentle to aggressive approach is a good life mantra, and in the case of tackle, whether cleaning and lubricating reels
or maintaining rods, light frequent maintenance is preferable to occasional aggressive sorties, and obviates the need of them. I have several target shotguns
with upwards of 20,000 to 35,000 logged rounds on them, yet they are in better mechanical and cosmetic condition than neglected guns I've seen as little as
a couple years old. The minimal but regular care my guns receive is actually less than the work it would take to clean up and restore ideal function to those
beat-upon guns. Fly rods and reels are even easier. Nevertheless, in the case of cork, I kind of start in the middle, a toothbrush and a light foaming cleanser
such as Tuff-Stuff, or even no cleaner at all except warm water being as mild as it gets. First, I think probably the natural oils in the hands help keep the
cork in shape. Whether or not that's so, I never use any sealer or coating of any kind on the outside. Next, I can't prove it, but I'd guess that
most cork damage goes from the inside out rather than the outside in (like corrosion in a rocker panel). So what is done on the outside of the cork probably
doesn't make much difference. In fact, poor sealing on the inside and too much on the outside probably makes matters worse. Here's why I think this:
many cork handles are formed from loosely reamed rings or prefabbed handles that have a loose, irregular fit, rather than snug over the blank (not tight,
snug). They make enough contact with the blank to adhere at some contact points with beads of glue, but there are air pockets and voids in the glue and the
pressure points. Thus the stress on the handle when gripped is uneven, and more so when flexed. In addition, the airpockets will hold humid air and/or allow
moisture to seep and remain between the blank and the cork. Thus, rot and breakage from the inside. Or if you've ever removed a grip from a factory rod to
rebuild it, you may have found beads of brittle, cracked glue (epoxy, maybe?) that have been gouging away at the grip from the inside. In contrast, when
building up handles, I ream for a snug, uniform, slide-on fit, and then I use a flexible, uniform sealant/adhesive, Seal-All being my preferred type over 35
years. Moisture can't get in there, let alone collapse and rot the grip from the inside. So now it matters much less what happens on the outside. When I
bother to clean my grips, I use warm water, a sprinkle of Comet cleanser, and a toothbrush, which bleaches the whole thing clean in seconds with very little
scrubbing. Take a look, realizing that the slightly rough surfaces you see are not the result of doing this. I don't fine sand my handles as I prefer a
slightly rough gripping surface. Top photo, original handle on a rod built in 1977, still used often, cleaned as described, but not cleaned since last season.
Next photo, same rod, cleaned this morning in less time than to take and load the photo, rinsed off but not quite dry. Bottom photo, same rod second from top,
dry, along with three others that have received the same treatment over the years, but not cleaned since last season. Bottom rod built mid-'80s, other
two late '70s.
Last Edited By: whrlpool
04/08/09 15:18:27.
Edited 3 times.
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JeffK |
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I have found Cork Seal doesn't affect the appearance of the cork if applied sparingly and lightly wiped off - it penetrates a little and seals. Never try
a second coat because the first coat will seal it and the second will just dry on the surface.
The damage from the inside seems right on too. I have gotten a few rods lately where the outside cork was OK, but the grip was loose on the blank because the inside was shot. All this points to regular maintenance is the key. If the grips are regularly cleaned they never seem to get too bad - if they go to far it may require aggressive cleaning. As a collector of old fishing stuff I don't really like to see mint condition good gear because that means someone bought good stuff but never had the time to use it. That is kind of sad to me. Abused equipment also saddens me. I like to see hard used equipment that was well maintained and still works fine. It's good to see a grip worn smooth with a patina of hand oils. I like to see ferrules where the outside finish has been worn assembling the rod (as long of course as the inside has been kept clean and the ferrule fits). That means someone appreciated their equipment and probably caught a lot of fish on it. Even modifications are fine if they were done well and make the rod fish better. If a person added more guides to make it cast better or replaced worn out guides that seems like part of the normal history of a rod and it may have been used by a "fish-head" like me. |
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Steelheader69 |
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Ok, here's a question. Why clean them? That's patina baby! Like cleaning a cast iron skillet. That patina is there for a reason. That's major mojo
you're cleaning off. Unless it's literally gunk from somebody tossing it in a garage, I leave my cork as is. After fishing I'll wipe off with a
towel, but that's about it (and clean off reel too). But I try to leave them as is. Adds character. But all my rods are fishing rods. I don't have them
as collectors. I just feel they have more character looking well fished. Just my opinion though.
I'm a Steelheader and I'm a Fenwick Man! If I'm fishing glass, you bet it's gonna be a Fenwick!
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BlueDunn |
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Steelheader69 wrote:I want to clean up the grip a bit because it's not my mojo... |
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Zenkoanhead.clarksclassicfl... |
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Similar method to yours Richard but I go through progressive grits all at once. Sand with 400, add thinned varnish to dusty grip, wet sand, drop to 600 wet
sand. After dry, sand again with 600, remove the dust, then put on the first additional coat of varnish. I will put on multiple coats of varnish over several
days. Then let it dry and use the 0000 steel wool. I use fast drying General Arm-R-Seal so the whole process takes 36 hours. One maker I know wet sands only
once with thinned varnish and 400 and stops. Don
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Steelheader69 |
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LOL Bluedunn. I can understand having a ton of dirt and grit on the grip. I clean off my grips, but only with water and a towel. Usually with my flyrods, only
my hand touching them. Not like some of my gear rods that may have egg goo, slime from baitwrapped plugs, etc. Those I'll clean with warm water and soap. I
won't ever go the route of sanding and varnishing. But I'm not too worried about them, as long as I take care of them (not banging them around, and
cleaning them periodically). Have my grandpa's boo rod that's about 100 years old and cork is still nice. And knew he took care of it same way. So if I
keep at it this way, mine should be good to go too.
I'm a Steelheader and I'm a Fenwick Man! If I'm fishing glass, you bet it's gonna be a Fenwick!
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BlueDunn |
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Just as a follow-up, I ended up using warm water, a little dish soap, and a non-abrasive sponge...worked like a charm!
Thanks everybody, for the suggestions! |
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