photo by Loudog99 |
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 corlay |
newbie rodbuilder's mistake #12,453.A |
Lead | |
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Master Guide
Posts: 564 (01/27/09 08:21:08) |
don't put Scotch tape on a spar-finished blank, unless the last coating of spar has been cured for at least 1
week.
always remember the mantra "you can't rush quality"...
"From my observations I think that most of us spend too much time worrying about our tackle and too little time
learning the intimate characteristics of the fish and streams we fish most."
- Ray Bergman
Trout, New York: Knopf 1938 |
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 mdwwhw |
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Master Guide
Posts: 391 (01/27/09 08:44:12) |
We could start a what not to do FAQ.
"Everything's better when wet...."
Steve Miller Band |
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Nijinski.theunofficialbl... |
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Sport
Posts: 6 (01/27/09 10:33:01) |
If you're unsure of whether or not the finish on the guides has set (when using epoxy), don't press your big clumsy thumb into the finish, cause you
end up with a great fingerprint. This is especially true if you have a record.
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jgestar |
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Posts: 3208 (01/27/09 11:35:31) ezOP |
The first rod I finished with spar was a 9 foot, 8 weight Sage RP. I had a nice diamond butt wrap on the rod and had finished it with several coats of
Gudebrod spar varnish. After drying for a couple of days I HAD to test cast it. At some point the 8 weight line got caught on the hook keeper and sawed a
nice groove in the still soft varnish. It didn't really cure hard for a couple more weeks.
If you really need to tape over a fresh finish, look for the 3M blue masking tape on an ORANGE core. It is especially low tack. The typical 3M blue tape has a blue core. There are some model makers masking tapes that are similar, but very pricey for the amount of tape in the package. Tom |
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beauglass |
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Master Guide
Posts: 479 (01/27/09 19:13:45) |
Don't feel bad. While I was taking pictures of that Monty I rebuilt, it fell off its precarious perch onto a rock. The varnish was a lot greener than I
thought and it left a big ugly scar on it just above the check.
It's time to turn over a new fly.
DF Furled Leaders |
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BH Spey |
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Master Guide
Posts: 219 (01/28/09 01:28:59) |
Nijinski
 I'm glad to see I'm not the only one that has no
patiences! I can't tell you how many of my early rods I had to redo because I couldn't wait to see if the epoxy was dry. I finally resorted to
painting my drying stand in a new spot each time as I finished a rod so I could test the epoxy on the drying stand and not ruin another rod finish!
-- This Space For Rent --
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BH Spey |
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Master Guide
Posts: 220 (01/28/09 01:37:11) |
My other famous move was to sit down in front of the TV with a newly completed rod, a new reel, and a fresh spool of gel spun backing and a new fly line to
assemble my new salmon outfit. I put the reel on, tied on the backing, and proceeded to wind on 225 yards of the gel spun while watching the tube. When I
came to the end of the backing I looked down and noticed that it had cut through the striper guide's finish all the way down to the thread.
-- This Space For Rent --
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NevadaK |
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Master Guide
Posts: 320 (01/29/09 17:34:42) |
Don't wrap threads when angry.
K |
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gloucesteroldspot |
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Sport
Posts: 13 (02/20/09 16:48:58) |
I've made quite a few boo-boos over the years. Here's some:
1 - Do make sure when fitting metal ferrules you mark the blank to indicate the correct depth for seating the female. First one I ever did I pushed on too far. Left it overnight for the glue to set and when I assembled it the next day the male would only go in half way. Some time later I restored a highly desirable B James MkIV Avon and replaced the broken ferrule with a new one (acquired at considerable expense). Mindful of the earlier catastrophe I marked the blank, then pushed the ferrule on and allowed 1/8th inch clearance when the male is fully home. Whipped the rod up (including the quarter-inch spaced intermediate whippings - on a ten foot rod!) sealed and varnished - four coats best Pegley Davis copal (the last of my supply) and allowed two weeks for each coat to dry. Took the rod to a nice carp pond for its first cast, hooked a five pounder on floating crust, bent into it and the rod folded up at the ferrule. After a protracted bout of swearing I calmed down enough to examine the damage, and discovered the gap between end of the male ferrule and the end of the cane inside the female was nearly 1/2 inch - 1/4 inch allowed for wear plus 1/8th allowed for measuring inaccuracy - erm, oh yes, now I remember. I'd already allowed an 1/8th when I marked the blank. 2 - Don't use thermosetting glue to fit ferrules (see 1) 3 - Don't use a saw to cut off ferrules (see 1 & 2) 4 - Don't shape cork handles when drunk. 5 - Don't restore an old rod without first taping some rings on and test casting it. I picked up an eight-foot 1930s Hardy Perfection for a song and spent a month painstakingly rewhipping new rings and varnishing. When it was finished it was easily the best refurb I'd ever done - the whippings were translucent ruby and the gold size varnish a perfect match for the original yellowed copal. Fitted with a 1920's Carter Perfect copy and ivory Aircel Supreme it looked the business. Took it to a trout lake, strung it up and put on a pheasant-tail spinner. A trout rose, fifteen yards out. Swish, swoosh, swi... hmmm - not exactly steely. The cane was completely shot. 6 - Don't use 400 grade wet & dry to lap ferrules. Particularly if you don't have the patience to test the fit after every turn. 7 - Don't let the cat near drying varnish. 8 - Do remember to put the winding check on before the female ferrule 9 - Do make sure you align the reel seat with the rings. 10 - Don't trust those old batteries in the rod turner. |
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OLD YANKEE |
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Master Guide
Posts: 274 (02/20/09 18:21:05) |
Hello
Last season I had a prototype rod I had just finished. I was delighted with the action on the rod and couldn't wait to show it off. So I had a club meeting that night and brought it along . I let everyone cast the little 5' rod they were all really impressed or at least they were kind enough to let me think they were. So it gets dark and we all head for the parking lot. One of the guys says"hey can I just give it one more wiggle". So I hand him the rod next thing you know I hear this strange sound and look down in the gravel parking lot to see what's going on. Sure enough there my little beauty in the dirt. So I pick it up dust it off and put it away. I get back to the shop and it's late so I leave the rod in the truck overnight. The next day I figure oh got to get the rod, upon my opening the back of the truck there was the little gem with sand and small stones stuck to the finish. I ended up completely stripping all the guides and finish and remaking the rod. It came out alright but never looked as good as it did the first time around. I guess that's what I get for showing off,and being inpatient . Lesson well learned. Tight Lines And We All Make Mistakes And Anyone That Says They Never Do Is A Liar Loops. Andy M
'FISH AND VISITORS STINK AFTER 3 DAYS' " DON'T FORGET THE BACKBONE" " REMEMBER TO SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL FISHERY"
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OhioOutdoorsman |
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Guide
Posts: 203 (02/20/09 19:08:57) |
A few off the top of my head from the past year:
1) Don't trust those old rubberbands to hold the rod on a drying machine. 2) If turning cork on the blank, make sure you tape all the areas up on blank that will experience friction so as not to mar the blank. 3) Don't touch the backside of decals with your bare fingers. Better yet, use waterslide decals or write inscriptions. 4) Make sure you put the sliding band on the real seat before gluing up. 5) Make sure you put the sliding band on in the right orientation. 6) Always make sure you get payment for materials before you start building a rod for a "friend", otherwise you can loose a friend and be stuck with a rod no one wants. 7) If rodbuilding is a hobby, don't let it become a business. Build only for yourself, your family, and few close friends as a gift. Don't build a rod with the intention of selling it. Build rods only with the intention that a specific person will fish with it. |
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