photo by turtledoc |
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 wacokid54 |
How do you guys do this? |
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Master Guide
Posts: 359 (12/10/08 22:17:03) |
I see some absolutely great photos of rods and reels on the forum. I struggle to get anything halfway decent. I do have a macro mode on my Canon digital,
which helps. Could some of the ace photographers out there please share some advice as to how to get some good rod photos? Lighting, background, and I
don't know what else to ask!
Thanks for any advise you can give. wacokid54 |
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 jgestar |
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Posts: 3040 (12/10/08 22:33:41) ezOP |
Lots of good light. Direct sunlight isn't good light because the shadows are too harsh. Light shade can be great. On a sunny day, take the rod out on
the north side of your house and set up in the shade. There should be more than enough light to get good photos, but the light doesn't create harsh
shadows.
A very plain background is good. Digital cameras will focus on high contrast patterns, such as grass, venician blinds, deck rails, bar codes, terry cloth towels, etc. If you have a very plain background, the camera should focus on your fly rod instead. If you have a dark colored rod, pick a somewhat dark background. If you have a light colored rod, pick a somewhat lighter background. Avoid black or white backgrounds if at all possible, unless you are going for the pro/artistic look. Use the color correction setting of your camera. If you are outdoors in the shade, set it to cloudy or shadow. If you are in direct sunlight, set it for sun. If you are using the flash, set it as such. If you are indoors under incandescent or fluorescent lights, make the appropriate settings. Getting the color correction right can save a lot of time of PhotoShop corrections. Tom |
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JeffSod |
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Master Guide
Posts: 980 (12/12/08 08:36:45) |
I am no expert but have noticed many pictures on ebay where the seller tried to get too close to the object and wound up with a fuzzy out of focus image as a result. When taking photos with a digital camera at full file size you do not have to be that close to the subject. Just get a good sharp image of the subject and crop out the extra background or unwanted portions once its loaded on your computer. A neutral light grey background also seems to provide nice results with a digital. |
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caddis4 |
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Master Guide
Posts: 187 (12/12/08 12:28:40) |
Not sure if this works wth digital cameras:
Back when I did black & white I used a 18% gray card to set the light meter. Seems all light meters are manufactured to expose in "middle gray" (18% gray card). Once I got the reading for the ambient light reflecting off that middle gray card, I would make the settings on the camera and then shoot - I would also "bracket" the shot - take two more photos with the settings set at one stop faster and one stop slower. To do this with a digital camera, you might try to place the middle gray card next to your subject and at the same distance from the camera, hold the shutter button part way down so the camera takes the light reading and focuses. Re-aim (move the card) and shoot. A tripod is a must! Most photo shops still carry those gray cards. |
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jgestar |
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Posts: 3047 (12/12/08 17:55:13) ezOP |
Some digicams have manual exposure settings and the 18% gray card setting works fine. The gray card works really well for setting the color balance if you
have a manual camera setting. Set up the photo, put the gray card in front of the subject, set the color balance, and then shoot pictures until the camera
memory is full.
If you don't have a manual color balance setting, you can set up a photo like JeffSod suggests with extra space around the subject. Include the gray card in the extra space that will eventually be cropped from the photo (make sure it gets the same lighting as the subject). Most photo editing programs have a "color correction" feature that asks the user to click the mouse pointer on a section of black, white, or gray in the photo. Use the gray card for the color correction, then crop it from the photo. Tom |
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JimatFFO |
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Guide
Posts: 103 (12/14/08 21:54:10) |
One of the most annoying things I have happen when photographing rods is getting that band of light along the edge of the rod that is in line with the camera
lens. It happens when shooting any cylindrical or spherical object. You'll always get direct light, reflected directly into the lens. Using a direct,
non-diffused flash creates this effect too. My best, low-tech fix is this: I've done this to great effect with outdoor macro stuff but I usually wait till
a very cloudy day, sometimes even raining. The daylight just gets totally diffused. It makes for great, non-flash photos and usually fixes that edge lighting
issue.
One of the great things about glass is, if it's not painted, it's usually translucent. Cornmuse has a Dam/Quick rod you can read through. Working so the light is shining through the rod, can lead to some great effects. You have to experiment with the right angle but can usually do something dramatic with just standard daylight. I've gotten some ok shots with a point and shoot (probably more luck than brains) but a digital SLR takes a lot of the worry out of figuring out some of these issues. I cut my teeth on film so I really like having all the manual control I can get. They're not cheap, but if set up correctly, they take a great shot, on the first shot. I second bracketing either exposure or F-stop. Digital film is cheap. -Jim |
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bulldog1935 |
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Posts: 4273 (12/15/08 09:05:08) Administrator |
Once you find a system, stick with it.
I have good indirect lighting on my kitchen table, with daylight from three sides. Not perfect, and it's only good for a limited time in the afternoons, but it's become my rod setup. A shaded porch is also a good idea. And use a tripod and timer.
the rods are never obsolete - the marketing is.
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middlemac |
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Posts: 996 (12/15/08 12:33:29) Projects Coordinator |
I would second bulldog's comment- and setting the camera for closeups- with one caveat. Until I can afford a nice camera and other gear...
With a relatively cheap camera (I use an HP Photosmart M537) and no tripod I get decent closeups by sticking with a simple system- shoot gear outside only on overcast days or under the shade tree, against relable backgrounds (members may already be sick of my riverstone patio), and shoot plenty of pictures. Something I learned from my older brother when I began my woodworking career- breath in, then exhale when you make your sawcut with your circular saw (i.e. press the shutter release on your camera). "Acting on the exhale" stills and focuses your body for a moment, in photography as well as sports and anything else. Works for me! 
middlemac
Last Edited By: middlemac
12/15/08 12:37:30.
Edited 1 times.
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kermit.clarksclassicfl... |
taking photos | ||
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Registered Member
Posts: 5 (12/15/08 17:23:13) |
I have had several SLR cameras, from 35 mm to the new digital SLR types, with all the attachments. I have given all that up for the new Canon G9. Period.
This camera will do all that I ask. Most photos are point and shoot. For real quality, just turn the dials to what looks good in the digital screen, make any
adjustments in the lighting as required, and shoot. I make any corrections on Google Picasa.............KERMIT
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bulldog1935 |
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Posts: 4276 (12/15/08 17:48:48) Administrator |
honestly, I think the close-ups are the easiest - certainly to get even lighting.
It's the wide shots of rods with even light that are toughest.
the rods are never obsolete - the marketing is.
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tonemike |
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Master Guide
Posts: 516 (12/16/08 01:23:57) |
thanks for starting this thread waco,
i struggle taking good pix with my digital camera and i'm glad for the tips. -mike |
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wacokid54 |
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Master Guide
Posts: 373 (12/16/08 10:31:42) |
You are welcome, Mike. I wanted to photo two rods, a blue and a gold Garcia Conolon rod, together. Could not come up with a photo I could post. I am
amazed at the complex and the simple tips that have showed up. Like, shoot on the shady side of the house! I think I am going to round a piece of gray felt
or carpet to use as a background outside. And maybe experiment with a simple shadow box big enough to photo a couple of feet of a rod. After all, it is way
too cold to fish here!
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gypsy |
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Master Guide
Posts: 371 (12/16/08 22:35:52) |
Shootin on the shady side is my favorite way to photograph rods. The best advice I could give is to get to know your camera and how it takes photos. Some of
the advice given here works great for me and some of the advice won't work with my camera. I have an el cheapo Nikon digital that will take some decent
pics but I really have to work at it some times. I guess that would be my #1 tip: set aside plenty of time to photograph the rods so you can experiment with
the settings and find what works. I started photographing a rod today at 2:00 pm and had to bag the project at 4:00 pm because the light was gone. It really
takes me that long to shoot photos that I'm happy with. Oh yeah and taking photos when it's 26 deg out sucks.
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caddis4 |
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Master Guide
Posts: 191 (12/17/08 06:28:37) |
Kermit,
Ive got an earlier version of the Canon G series. I was disappointed that Canon had eliminated the ability to open the LCD Monitor screen on the newer models. My G2 has only 4 mega pixels, but the adjustable LCD screen is great when in a croud/audience (like at my daughter's graduation) to hold the camera overhead and be able to "compose" the shot. (Can shoot around corners too.  )
I have to agree with you...the G series is a terrific "serious amateur" camera. |
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bulldog1935 |
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Posts: 4604 (02/05/09 12:25:16) Administrator |
rods.
nice reels and nice photos, btw, but the question was photographing rods. We need to get Tom to share his rod-lighting setup, because he has photographing rods down.
the rods are never obsolete - the marketing is.
Last Edited By: bulldog1935
02/05/09 12:28:01.
Edited 1 times.
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Duff |
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Master Guide
Posts: 430 (02/05/09 13:16:20) |
Sorry, thought it was about photographic techniques. Post removed.
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bulldog1935 |
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Posts: 4607 (02/05/09 15:40:07) Administrator |
Duff, don't do that, I was teasing you.
http://fiberglassflyrodders.yuku.com/topic/6899 but here is a good thread to post your reel macro set-up.
the rods are never obsolete - the marketing is.
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Spencer DT |
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Master Guide
Posts: 129 (02/05/09 16:58:19) |
I mess around with a dSLR camera and do not have any real good lenses for macro shots (close up shots). One thing that I have found helps with these shots is
to pull the camera back away from the subject and zoom in with the lens. This will allow the camera to focus well, I figured this out through trial and
error, don't know if it is specific to my camera and situation or if this is always the case but it is good info for taking close shots of gear etc.
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turtledoc.clarksclassicfl... |
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Posts: 181 (02/06/09 12:08:53) Adminstrator
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I'll re-state Ron's comment earlier which I think was very good....
"find a system that works for you and stick with it"..... There are many ways to get the results you are looking for and what works for someone else might not work for you. Just be willing to try different methods, and something will work well..... I for one with my reel shots get VERY close to the subject....as close as possible....this is because I don't use flash and if I zoom in that usually will increase the F-Stop and I don't get as good of results. For me and my Pentax W30, it works best being up close and personal with a tripod and timer.......doesn't mean this will work for everyone, but it works for me
Also, I still use the "V" cave when I want a black background but have found that "Reelsmith's" method of using a sheet of white 11x17 paper laid on a table and then another piece standing up and curved around the subject works great for white backgrounds. EDIT: One more thing......I find (again with reels....I know this topic was started about rods, but the similar concepts apply), that it is very important to have a white or black board to block out any reflections from the camera, whatever is behind the camera, and even myself. Sometimes I have a board set-up behind the camera, one blocking reflection from it, and another held in front of my shirt so the color of what ever I am wearing doesn't reflect and impact the highlights on the subject. Mark B
Last Edited By: turtledoc
02/06/09 12:35:26.
Edited 1 times.
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bulldog1935 |
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Posts: 4611 (02/06/09 14:04:47) Administrator |
Mark, rods are tough, because of need to get uniform lighting over a wider distance and having to photo from longer working distances.
the rods are never obsolete - the marketing is.
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psutrooper.clarksclassicfl... |
Thank you as well... I was just going to pose the same question..... | ||
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Sport
Posts: 9 (02/09/09 08:43:05) |
Now time to practice.
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