What is the best ways to remove varnish blems from the finished rod and how soon after the varnish is applied? Thanks (Poly Spar Varnish)
photo by Loudog99 |
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littlejuniata33 |
Smoothing Routh Varnish Spots |
Lead | |
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What is the best ways to remove varnish blems from the finished rod and how soon after the varnish is applied? Thanks (Poly Spar Varnish)
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corlay |
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littlejuniata33 wrote:If you have more coats to apply, then you can use something fine to "Scuff" the finish rather than "sand", I'd recommend. Like a (blue) ScotchBrite pad. Or '00' steel wool (or finer). Rub lightly, and check often. "Scuff" just enough to remove the blips. Let the spar finish dry at least 24hrs. before "scuffing". If this was supposed to be the final finish coat, then, unfortunately, I have no advice for you.
"From my observations I think that most of us spend too much time worrying about our tackle and too little time
learning the intimate characteristics of the fish and streams we fish most."
- Ray Bergman
Trout, New York: Knopf 1938 |
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littlejuniata33 |
Thanks | ||
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just a touchup coat, another coat to follow, Thanks again
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gypsy |
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0000 steel wool works good but I like grey scotch brite pads even better. No matter how thoroughly I clean the area I steel wooled I seem to always find a
fiber or two of steel when the varnish is being poured on...or after when it's dry. No problem with the scotch brite pads.
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corlay |
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gypsy wrote:I'm using those Grey pads, also. Equivalent to '00' steel wool, the product data says...
"From my observations I think that most of us spend too much time worrying about our tackle and too little time
learning the intimate characteristics of the fish and streams we fish most."
- Ray Bergman
Trout, New York: Knopf 1938 |
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davelrods |
I scuff with 500 wet and dry | ||
littlejuniata33 wrote: while rotating. I cut the paper in quarter inch strips which I can hold against the wrap. The main thing you have to be careful of is making sure the bad spot has cured fully before you do another coat over it. If it still has some solvent retention it will tend to swell and you'll end up with the spot yet again. I like to let it cure for about a week in the drying cabinet before I recoat. Do the sanding just before you recoat and be careful you don't slip and scratch the blank. |
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