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Cork Filler Question

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alpago	Cork Filler Question	Lead	[-]
Guide Posts: 217 (06/26/08 21:33:37) Guide Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Guys, Need some helps on cork grip. I've decided to give it a try on turning a cork grip. Need help on how to apply cork filler. Some people use cork dust with titebond wood glue. But when I look at titebond, the color is cream/yellow, when we mix with cork dust, does the color will be the same with the original cork color? I've read on rodbuilding forum, they are using cork filler from mudhole and it works great accroding to them. But somebody said that it looks like "Elmer - Golden Oak" wood filler. If that so, does it mean we can use wood filler instead? Just need opinion which one work best. Thanks Al
gypsy		#1	[-]
Master Guide Posts: 239 (06/26/08 22:21:53) Guide Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Al in my experience no filler will be exactly the same color as the cork after it gets wet. looks pretty close when it's dry but after the grip takes a dipping the filler stands out. I use Dap Plastic wood Golden oak and it's OK. Haven't tried the new MudHole product.
alpago		#2	[-]
Guide Posts: 218 (06/27/08 00:44:05) Guide Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Thanks Gypsy. The Dap Plastic Wood golden oak is wood filler? You don't have to add anything just apply it right? Sound like it easier that using wood glue and add the cork dust
bassackwards		#3	[-]
Guide Posts: 195 (06/27/08 10:34:27) Guide Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Since you are turning the grip yourself, you might try wet sanding it with spar varnish. The varnish and cork dust fills the pits. The varnish forms a protective coat to prevent the pits from falling out. The grip ends up looking a bit like nicely finished maple. Use a fine waterproof sandpaper like emory cloth. Here's a good example of how it looks:
alpago		#4	[-]
Guide Posts: 219 (06/28/08 09:22:33) Guide Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Thanks Bassakward, I didn't we can put varnish on cork. I should try that especially on cork reel seat. Al
jgestar		#5	[-]
Posts: 2409 (06/28/08 11:29:12) ezOP Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Al, For small pits, the wet sanding with varnish works. But for the really big holes, you need the DAP plastic wood or Titebond & cork dust procedure to fill it. After you shape the grip, you will have A LOT of cork dust. Next fill the big holes with plastic wood or glue & dust. Let it dry, then try the sanding the cork while keeping it wet with varnish (caution: this is MESSY!). Also, go over the Clark's board and run a search for "cork" on the Rod Making forum. Cane rod builders get obsessed about cork, so there is some good information there. Tom
alpago		#6	[-]
Guide Posts: 220 (06/29/08 05:17:57) Guide Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Tom, Thanks for the link, they sure know a lot about cork. I've tried DAP plastic wood as you and Gypsy suggested, easier than I thought. Will try Titebond and cork dust latter to see the different. Thanks Al
gypsy		#7	[-]
Master Guide Posts: 244 (06/29/08 06:25:15) Guide Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Hey I just thought I'd throw this in... seems like the general consensus at rodbuilding.org is that the MudHole cork filler is Elmers in Golden oak.
evanslmtd		#8	[-]
Master Guide Posts: 294 (06/29/08 08:15:56) Sport Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	gypsy That's exactly what it is. Don't ask me how I know this! (LOL) Time is precious. Waste it wisely! Barry
flyfishing4goldentrout		#9	[-]
Master Guide Posts: 1605 (06/30/08 21:22:47) Master Guide Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Hi Al, Well a cork reel seat does take alot of extra effort. I like to use a 50% diluted mixture of Elmers glue with water and then make a paste out of cork dust. Spread it on with a bit of pressure into the cork, I usually use an old ice cream stick to press it into the "holes"-"pores" then let it dry. Then its a nasty process of using wet and dry sandpaper with Spar Varnish to work it down. At each stage I work it for awhile and let it dry for a day or two. Then do it again, it usually takes two or three times to get it filled and looking nice. Guess thats why they charge so much for the higher grades of cork! Richard Last Edited By: flyfishing4goldentrout 06/30/08 21:25:32. Edited 1 times.
alpago		#10	[-]
Guide Posts: 222 (07/01/08 11:06:34) Guide Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Thanks Richard, I was just trying my hand on turning the reel seat using cork using hand drill. Kind of fun actually, at least I can easily remove it if I don't like it. Most reel seat is quite expensive and I don't find it practical to put 20-30 buck reel seat on 60 buck lami. Anyway this is my first build, see how it goes. Al
flyfishing4goldentrout		#11	[-]
Master Guide Posts: 1610 (07/01/08 19:03:37) Master Guide Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Hi Al, To be honest, for my son, and grandsons, I used some vintage aluminum reel seats. They are pretty bullet proof for youngsters to work with. A 60 dollar Lami blank is nothing to sneeze at Al, you can easily produce a rod that can sell for $200 and alot up depending on what you do, its not a bargain basement blank. Ive put alot of $75 seats on those blanks for special order rods, some of those fancy Golden Witch $80 blued and gold agate strippers too. Look very carefully at our photo section here, your blank is a good one, while it may be your first it has alot of promise. If you want a classic aluminum reel seat let me know, I'll let you have just one (absolutely the only one I will give away) of a group that have long been obsolute. Its a gold polished brass finished model that hasn't been around for nearly 50 years. Its the same one I put on my grandsons Lami's. Richard
davelrods	Home made cork filler	#12	[-]
Guide Posts: 83 (07/16/08 23:45:02) Sport Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I mix my own cork filler. I keep cork dust from my grip work and mix it with clear laquer, urethane cement, and almond oil base enamel from Rustoleum. The paint is to lighten and color the filler to match the grip. Any glue will tend to darken the cork dust. I apply the filler with a small knife, allow to dry, then scrub the grip with laquer thinner soaked paper towel to remove the excess filler. Do the scrubbing in a rotating direction so you don't pull the filler out of the pits. It will leave you with much shallower pits, that have cork matching color filler. It ends up looking quite natural. You can see dozens of pictures of my grips on my web site. I would be reluctant to use any filler that has a water base glue in it.
cross creek one	Why fill?	#13	[-]
Sport Posts: 67 (07/17/08 09:39:03) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	To be honest, I've never found a filler concoction that I was happy with. Long ago, I settled on finding the best cork I could, selecting the ring position based on where the pits are located in the ring vs the thickness of the grip/seat at that point, and living with the flaws that show (they don't really hurt anything in use, if they're not on the ends of the grip). For cork seats, I select the most perfect rings I can, reasoning that the seat takes the most abuse and wear from the sliding ring. My cork seats are more expensive to make than most wood seats, no matter how rarified the wood. At $3 or more for the best cork rings, 3.5 inches goes for $21 and up for the raw materials, before the hardware and labor. Very few 1X4 inch wood pieces sell that dearly. -CC
Raybow		#14	[-]
Sport Posts: 77 (07/24/08 13:42:38) Sport Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	alpago, I used the tightbond and cork dust on two different rods and one turned out good and I almost ruined the other because I covered the whole grip and let dry over night and it was very hard to reshape and I did loose some of the original shape and diameter of the grip. The rod that turned out good was because I spot filled the holes. Theres nothing like experiance that teaches the best and the mistakes stick out and are never forgotten. On furniture grade woood I used supper glue and the dust that was generated from the sanding to fill the holes. Don't know if this will work on cork??????? Good luck and let us know the results. Ray......................

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